A firm weave

Barleycorn weave, crepe or honeycomb may sound like things to eat, but they are not. Rather, they are the names of woven fabrics that play a role in fashion but not in workwear. This is because smooth textures are primarily sought for professional clothing because of their greater durability.

The invention of fabric has produced an indescribable variety of different surfaces over time. However, they are all based on a warp and weft system. The differing textures - from grainy to smooth, from coarse to soft - are created solely by varying the crossing points. The potential for different designs is heightened through the use of threads with special structures. This is reflected by the sample book that Melchior Textil maintains in keeping with a long-standing tradition and that contains thousands of different threads. Yet, even though weaving allows an almost limitless variety, only a few basic weaves are suitable for workwear fabrics. They are known as canvas, twill, panama or satin. What they all have in common is a large number of weave points in the warp-weft system. This results in high tensile strength and a relatively smooth, low-pilling surface. They are resistant to soiling and mechanical stress in everyday working life and are readily washable.

Canvas: strong bond with a wide range of patterns

Of all the weaving structures, the plain weave is the simplest, because one warp thread is always crossed with one weft thread. The result is a somewhat voluminous, durable textile that has served successfully as sails for ships, sackcloth or artist's canvas for centuries. With their simple design, plain-woven fabrics for single-colour workwear play a subordinate role and are used almost exclusively in shirts and blouses. The situation is different for coloured fabrics. Binding coloured warp and/or weft yarns results in interesting colour effects and check and stripe designs in a wide range of variations. Melchior Textil can look back on a long tradition of colourful woven fabrics. The "Service Trendline" range includes a variety of striped and check patterns in two or more shades. In addition, new designs are constantly being added in keeping with the spirit of the times. For restaurant workwear, full-colour, narrow stripes or pinstripes with brown or black backgrounds are currently the trend; small checks, on the other hand, are only in demand for shirt and blouse fabrics.

Twill: dense and hard-wearing like denim

The most widespread workwear fabrics in the industry feature a twill weave. These should be familiar to anyone who has ever looked at their jeans under a magnifying glass. The fabric is characterised by an oblique burr, which runs from right to left (Z-twill) or exactly mirror-inverted from left to right (S-twill). The pattern is created by tying the warp or weft system over at least two "floating" threads, which in turn are offset against each other by at least one thread. The weave points in the twill fabrics commonly used in workwear are therefore always offset laterally by one warp thread and longitudinally by one weft thread. This means that there are more warp threads than weft threads on the front side of the fabric. As the warp threads form the finer thread system for technical reasons, the twill weave is suitable for the production of densely woven, very hard-wearing fabrics with a pronounced diagonal burr. In the coloured fabric segment they also feature brilliant colours and exhibit a certain degree of elasticity. By using yarns with an elastic fibre content (elastane, elastolefin, lycra, etc.), it is possible to additionally increase the elasticity of the textiles without compromising durability. Melchior Textil’s “Dynamic” fabric line is based on this technology. Despite the low proportion of elastolefin fibers (2-5%), the "Dynamic" stretch fabrics feature a high, reversible elasticity, are hard-wearing and suitable for leasing. In addition, many coloured fabric qualities, from denim to the fil-à-fil look of the "Style" range, are based on a twill weave: This involves weaving a dyed warp yarn with a raw white weft yarn.

Fabric types reflecting contemporary tastes

Panama fabrics are more of a fashion-motivated textile in the workwear sector. The production method is derived directly from the plain weave. However, not every warp thread and every weft thread is tied together. Rather this is done with two or more threads. The result is a unicoloured cube pattern with comparatively high porosity and a soft feel. The fabrics are sometimes used for fashionable workwear, as the structure is very popular. Coarse yarns were often used to highlight the structure. However, these are very susceptible to the formation of fibre nodules (pillings) and impair the seam slippage strength. Trousers must then be specially tailored in all high-stretch areas, such as the crotch, if they are not to lose their durability the first time the wearer bends to stoop. Due to various restrictions, Melchior Textil does not offer fabrics with such bindings.

On the other hand, satin fabrics are an indispensable part of any specialist’s range of workwear fabrics, They are characterised by a lower number of weave points and floating warp threads on the upper side. Depending on the yarns used, they give the fabric an elegant shiny surface and a matt underside dominated by the weft yarn, which exhibits a high cotton content and high moisture absorption. The satin weave produces relatively soft, brilliant fabrics with limited mechanical strength. Satin fabrics are therefore preferred for use in areas where prestige is paramount or where good climate management is also required, e.g. in the healthcare sector.

No fabric without suitable yarns

The weave chosen plays an important role in the production of workwear fabrics. It influences the strength, durability, softness and elasticity of a fabric. However, the fibre materials and their appearance and use in the warp and/or weft also exert a major influence on the complex "fabric" system.

There is no place for compromise when it comes to demanding workwear fabrics. For this reason, Melchior Textil uses only yarns with an intimate fibre blend of cellulose (cotton, Tencel) and polyester staple fibres. This gives the fabrics the quality demanded by the garment manufacturers - i.e. durability, comfort and ready launderability. It permits a wide range of variations in the weight classes from 120 to 300 g/m² and allows an enormous range of fashionable variations. The "Style" collection provides an impression of this diversity. The portfolio includes modern fabrics in plain, coloured, denim and stylish melange looks that give sophisticated business and casual wear a vibrant, lively and fresh appearance. The weave undoubtedly lays the foundation for this. Yet, the true art is to make something out of it.

Modern, comfortable fabrics for a stylish look in the hospitality industry

Wangen, July 2018: Working in the hospitality industry places heavy demands on personnel clothing. It should be modern yet discreet, comfortable and pleasant, resistant to stains and easy to launder. Melchior Textil’s wide range of fabrics fulfils all these wishes. It combines excellent quality with high comfort and launderability, while ensuring that hospitality employees look their absolute best for a long time.

Reception and service staff at hotels and restaurants should be dressed elegantly, but never flamboyantly. This is why dark colours are preferred: they provide a discreet look and, in some cases, conceal minor stains that may occur in everyday working life. The situation in the kitchen is quite different, however. The hectic job in great heat calls for clothing that keeps the cooking staff cool and protects them from splashes of fat and other hazards. Housekeeping staff also need climate comfort. In addition, however, the visible implementation of the hotel’s corporate identity also plays an important role.

Durable qualities combined with a sophisticated appearance

Ready-made garment manufacturers looking for suitable fabrics will find the right solutions at Melchior Textil for all areas of the hospitality industry. The "Daily Perfect" line is the ideal choice for kitchen, service and housekeeping uniforms with a range that includes attractive plain-coloured fabrics in various textures and material blends in up to 79 attractive shades. They are all kept in stock and available for immediate delivery. "Service Trendline", on the other hand, features a large selection of aesthetically coloured fabrics in elegant shades for service aprons or waistcoats.

Comfortable fabric in a modern look

The "Style" line introduces the latest fashions to the work world: denim and fil-à-fil looks, plain-woven melanges and stretch fabrics give blouses and shirts a particularly trendy look. If, on the other hand, outstanding wearability is at the top of the wish list, fabrics from the "Emotion" line are the ideal choice. The plain-coloured Tencel blended fabrics feature a unique climate effect that makes strenuous work and hot environments bearable.

Uncompromising in daily use

Melchior's product range offers a variety of approaches for creating modern workwear for the hospitality industry. At the same time, the quality fabrics guarantee excellent lauderability and wearability, ensuring a long service life for the workwear and thus guaranteeing a top look for employees at all times.

Fabrics for a new interpretation of business clothing

Wangen, July 2018: The austere business look is now a thing of the past in many industries. Instead, the focus is on comfort, a more modern appearance and easy launderability. Melchior Textil's diverse range of fabrics is tailored to the new generation of business clothing: Fil-à-fil designs, melange looks, denims or stretch qualities in elegant shades and attractive plain colours offer completely new design possibilities for ready-made garments.

The market for classic business apparel made from wool-based fabrics has shifted in favour of a fashion-influenced look inspired by high wearability. Manfred Seeber, managing director of Melchior Textil, knows the reasons for saying goodbye to the “formal look”: “The purpose of the clothing should be to help receptionists and service staff at car rentals, in hospitals, at perfumeries or in the hospitality industry to cope with their workload. Comfortable stretch fabrics are required for this. They must also look good, be durable and be easy to look after. Fabrics made of wool and wool blends cannot compete in this respect as they are demanding in terms of the care they require and are only available in a limited range of colours.”

Design variety with benefits for employees

With its "Style" range of fabrics, Melchior has already positioned itself for the next generation of business clothing. Stretch fabrics with a pleasant feel on the skin, exceptional freedom of movement and suitability for industrial laundering result in outfits featuring outstanding comfort and excellent care properties. Different weights are available for suits, shirts and blouses in classic plain colours and matching melange looks, in fil-à-fil and denim qualities.

Heightened variety through combinations

During product development, Melchior made sure that it was possible for the fabrics to be freely combined with each other. This led to a variety of possible variations that allows a high degree of individualisation in the design of the collection. Nor has corporate wear for companies been neglected: minor modifications to the consistent appearance of a team allow different departments to be distinguished.

Top quality

The quality fabrics from Melchior guarantee discreet chic together with excellent wearability and easy launderability. They ensure a long service life and thus help to make all employees look their absolute best at all times. “This new approach to customer-oriented business is valued throughout the industry,” observes Manfred Seeber. “The multi-facetted comfort typical of private clothing ensures a top corporate look in every respect - without giving the employees the feeling of wearing a disguise.”

Fabrics for sustained use

Wangen, April 2018: Workwear fabrics from Melchior Textil are designed to withstand the stresses and strains of everyday work as well as textile service processing. Thanks to their high quality and durability, they achieve a long service life and thus meet the indispensable prerequisite for long-lasting use.

The sustainability of workwear starts with the fabrics from which it is made. The greater the quality of the textiles, the longer the service life and the lower the replacement rate will be. Melchior Textil puts this simple pearl of wisdom into practice, creating high-performance collections made from durable, hard-wearing fabrics.

Tencel fabrics for sustainable collections

Melchior’s Tencel blends from the standard "Emotion" range also offer durable fabrics with high wearability made from sustainably produced fibres. Tencel (Lenzing) is a multi-award-winning product made from a raw material which comes from sustainable forestry with low land requirements. Neither herbicides nor pesticides are used, while water requirements are covered from natural sources. The fibres are manufactured in an environmentally friendly production process and feature a unique feel and wearability.

Extensive range of sustainable fibers

For customers looking for bespoke, sustainable workwear fabrics, however, Melchior develops made-to-measure solutions, implementing them with a high level of quality. The company offers numerous fibre alternatives ranging from GOTS-certified cotton to recycled post-consumer polyester. “Each client has their own approach to sustainability or prefers a particular certificate. With the partnership-based development, testing of the fabric’s suitability for its intended use and marketing we adapt to the individual wishes of each of our customers”, explains Manfred Seeber, managing director of Melchior Textil.

Top compatibility

All of Melchior's workwear fabrics also meet the sustainability requirements of the ready-to-wear and textile service industries from an ecological point of view. The finishing plant, which gives the textiles their special performance characteristics such as light fastness, pilling resistance and industrial launderability, is certified according to the ISO 14001 environmental management system. In addition, all fabrics are certified according to Standard 100 by Oeko Tex. They will soon be certified according to Product Class 1 (for babies and toddlers) and thus follow in the footsteps of the company’s Tencel qualities, which already bear this label.